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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.